Tools, Glorious Tools! #10 (Part 2) - Shop Made Gear Cutters - The Cutter Forming Tools
Added 2020-05-10 23:44:59 +0000 UTCHi Folks,
Here is part 2 of the shop made gear cutter series - do please enjoy!
Cheers,
Chris.
ps Tool drawings to follow shortly. [EDIT - Drawings now available below, at the bottom of the text]
Direct links to the video -
Vimeo: https://vimeo.com/417001842/7edec888da
Youtube: https://youtu.be/AN0rYzOvMyg
-------------- Video Notes: ---------------
Some top resources on Gear Theory!
John Stevenson's Blog Post - http://metalwebnews.com/howto/gear/gear1.html
WO Davis – “Gears For Small Mechanisms”: https://amzn.to/2Yj2Ben
JM Wild - "Wheel & Pinion Cutting in Horology": http://amzn.to/2HI6ca9
"Gears and Gear Cutting", Ivan Law: http://amzn.to/2FKmaUI
Tony's gear videos:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q-XOM4E4RZQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ds6qZ7Ss2fA
Stefan on the subject of sharpening, and a discussion on profile error: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7sxq5khqeWI
Mr Pete's Gear Videos:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JMhYuXx35Ik
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=12sdMFr5CNU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2lPNqn8LU4Q
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dQVUI1YhN0E
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mXU-URNdUFU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dipd0ohrYzg
Andy Pugh's Gear hobbing video's:
"The Watchmakers' Lathe " Ward Goodrich - https://amzn.to/2Wijchr
Hugh Sparks - https://www.csparks.com/watchmaking/CycloidalGears/index.jxl
"The Clock & Watch Makers Guide to Gear Making" Porter - https://amzn.to/2xuFP7I
Online Gear Generator: https://geargenerator.com/
Alan Pinkus’s Gear Generator - http://www.micro-machine-shop.com/gears.htm#Gearotic_Motion
Matthias Wandels gear generator: https://woodgears.ca/gear_cutting/template.html
(Amazon Affiliate links)
Cameras:
Panasonic GH5 - https://amzn.to/2rEzhh2
Panasonic X920 - https://amzn.to/2wzxxdT
Books:
"Wheel & Pinion Cutting in Horology": http://amzn.to/2HI6ca9
"Solidworks 2013 Bible": http://amzn.to/2FObS1D
WO Davis – “Gears For Small Mechanisms”: https://amzn.to/2Yj2Ben
"Workshop practice Series": https://amzn.to/2WgeGh0
Tools & Shop Products:
Norton 1-by-2-by-8-Inch Fine/Coarse India Combination Oilstone, Red: http://amzn.to/2tTEPb0
Hegner Scroll Saw: https://amzn.to/2IhteVW
Digital Caliper 6 inch/150 mm Electronic Vernier Calipers: https://amzn.to/2EArNRU
Generic Dial Indicator 0.001": http://amzn.to/2FOFTyF
Interapid Dial Test Indicator: http://amzn.to/2FPInwH
Optivisor Headband Magnifier: http://amzn.to/2HFg1FU
Saint Gobain (Norton) - 4 Arkansas Stones + case: http://amzn.to/2HCOAMX
Dormer A190202 Jobber Drill Set, 1.0 mm - 6.0 mm x 0.1 mm Size: https://amzn.to/2DR5fdb
Dormer A190203 Jobber Drill Set, 6.0 mm - 10.0 mm x 0.1 mm Size: https://amzn.to/2ITfeTa
YG1 NC Spotting Drill 8% Cobalt HSS 1/8 to 1/2" 120 Degree 5 Pc Set CNC Machine: https://amzn.to/2G7ylv6
Hegner Scroll Saw: https://amzn.to/2IhteVW
Blazer GB2001 Self-Igniting Butane Micro-Torch: https://amzn.to/3f5Gzlh
Magnetic Base Adjustable Metal Test Indicator Holder Digital Level 14" - Tool Stand: https://amzn.to/2PkyoTV
Anytime Tools Angle Block Set 1°, 2°, 3°, 4°, 5°, 10°, 15°, 20°, 25°, 30° Precision +/- 20 Seconds, Machinist Tool, 10 Piece Set: https://amzn.to/2QFqM2Y
Jewellers Bench Block - https://amzn.to/3clHQD2
Consumables:
Super Pike Saw Blades Size 3/0 pkg of 144: https://amzn.to/2uI0QdT
Blue Matador Abrasive Paper: https://amzn.to/2IAFiBT
Bergeon Professional Cleaning Rodico: https://amzn.to/2NwcM6y
Comments
Thanks Chris, doing project backlogs because I am sick of adjusting hairsprings ;-)
David Paterson
2024-03-07 09:55:29 +0000 UTCHi David, yes you can adjust dimensions as required based on stock and tool availability; I use both interchangeably based on what I have available. The boss must be a precise fit, but no reason it can't be 8mm if that's the reamer size you have. As I recall, the index pin distance is how it basically came out based on all other design requirements, but I would expect you can modify just about all aspects to suit what you need. There will likley be consequences for each move, just keep your eye on it as you make the changes - Cheers :)
Clickspring
2024-03-07 08:12:58 +0000 UTCI know this is an old project of yours, but, I am looking at the metric version of the plans and have a few questions> Can I assume the hole for the boss at 7.94 is simply an expression for 5/16 and can be replaced with 8mm (given the availability of 8mm stock in Aus). Is there any particular logic to the 7.64mm distance between the boss and the index pin? or can this be replaced with a more convenient 7.5? Question is related to not having the drawing to see it it has any impact on the relationship between the cutter shape and milling out the corners. Cheers David
David Paterson
2024-03-07 07:51:58 +0000 UTCHI Chris,
David Paterson
2024-03-07 07:46:17 +0000 UTCYes certainly mate, would work well :)
Clickspring
2023-07-02 02:39:12 +0000 UTCG'day Chris, Watching this again it occurred to me that, when aligning the cutters in the sharpening jig, laying a small ruler's edge across the tops of both buttons would quickly show whether they were aligned with each other, and the axis of the jig, or not, as *any* deviation from perfect alignment would result in the ruler only touching one edge on each button, instead of laying flat across both faces. So much to take in in your videos :) Cheers
Duncan Luddite
2023-07-02 02:31:21 +0000 UTCThanks for posting Chris. G:)
Graeme Brumfitt
2020-11-22 20:27:20 +0000 UTCMis-type above Scott, I use the cycloidal profile - Cheers :)
Clickspring
2020-09-29 03:36:59 +0000 UTCHi Scott, I use the cycloidal square bottom profile, and yes "Module No.1" and "M 1.0" are two ways of saying the same thing. The cutter costs are a massive part of the project cost, hence this short series! If you decide to have a go at your own cutters, I'm here for advice should you need it. There are also a couple of guys active on the Discord who are making their own clock mechanisms at present using this process to make their own cutters - Cheers :) - edit - typo: the profile I use is cycloidal
Clickspring
2020-09-29 03:35:44 +0000 UTCHi Chris - I am increasingly tempted to make a Wilding clock, though I would attempt the beginner's model... Did you cut your wheels with involute or cycloidal teeth? There's a significant price difference between the two! :) Also, does a "Module No. 1" cutter size = M 1.0? Thanks for the advice and inspiration!
Scott Lindroth
2020-09-29 03:14:34 +0000 UTCWhen a new video?
David Martinez Zaragoza
2020-08-07 13:22:53 +0000 UTCHello mate! I think the general answer is yes, given that the error is quite small. Although its somewhat difficult to quantify since were talking about deviation from a curve. For the majority of the acting surface near the pitch circle the deviation is small, and so I would think it reasonable to say that the difference is negligible. The error tends to be greatest at the tooth tip and root where it is less consequential (assuming adequate clearance maintained), and becomes progressively smaller as the tooth count increases. Certainly adding a few more cutters to the standard 8 would be satisfactory I think, but then of course you can always zero in exactly on the tooth counts you intend to use for a given project with this method and get it as close as possible too - Cheers :)
Clickspring
2020-05-14 19:39:03 +0000 UTCHi Chris! Really like your work in general and this series is particularly interesting. Making tools is fun and can (sometimes) help save money. Do you think that a set of eight gear cutters would be enough to cover the making any gear from smallest to rack? It seems like professional gear cutters typically come in sets of eight cutters. Or would this slightly more "approximate" style of cutters require a larger set?
ollto
2020-05-14 14:09:23 +0000 UTCHaha thanks Chris! I was looking into this and I have found that some people warm up the part to above boiling and quench it in the boric acid (and water) solution so that it dries and leaves a coating of boric acid on the surface. (it was a knife maker). I've had pretty ordinary results with borax and metho so I will do some experiments when the proper stuff turns up.
John Creasey
2020-05-14 11:06:35 +0000 UTCBoric acid is only mildly soluble in alcohol (if at all) and so the powder essentially stays in suspension in the alcohol, with the alcohol actings as a carrier, taking the powder into the nooks and crannies of the part. I have always assumed that the choice of alcohol is because it burns off quite rapidly, leaving the boric acid powder mostly undisturbed where you need it on the part. (The fact that it burns off and evaporates simultaneously complicates things a bit, but overall I imagine its better than water) - if this turns out to be wrong, do please let me know the actual reason! - Cheers :)
Clickspring
2020-05-14 11:01:34 +0000 UTCThanks Chris, I ordered some. Is there a reason you dissolve it in alcohol instead of water?
John Creasey
2020-05-14 09:25:11 +0000 UTCHi John, I use this stuff here: https://www.jewellerssupplies.com.au/product/26105-boric-acid-powder-500g - Cheers :)
Clickspring
2020-05-12 20:01:47 +0000 UTCHi Chris, do you use borax for your boric acid?
John Creasey
2020-05-12 12:52:28 +0000 UTCHello mate - Generally I clean with lighter fluid - Cheers :)
Clickspring
2020-05-11 20:15:27 +0000 UTCAlways great. How do you go about degreasing your parts after heat-treat, sharpening or mill/lathe operations? I can imagine a huge oily mess if not done properly.
Paul Busby
2020-05-11 09:22:32 +0000 UTCTerrific to hear that mate :)
Clickspring
2020-05-11 05:30:15 +0000 UTCThank you John :)
Clickspring
2020-05-11 05:29:59 +0000 UTCCheers mate :)
Clickspring
2020-05-11 05:29:50 +0000 UTCI really enjoy the videos .... always a bit of a let down when they finish .... I've gotten into the habit of watching them twice in a row just to see if I missed anything.
Thomas McGinnis
2020-05-11 05:21:25 +0000 UTCBeautiful finish on the buttons, you just make it look so easy. :)
John Gentzel
2020-05-11 03:59:00 +0000 UTCHey you make it all look so easy Chris. Thanks for the time in your world.
Andrew Pratt
2020-05-11 02:24:09 +0000 UTCCheers Myles :)
Clickspring
2020-05-11 01:39:27 +0000 UTCHello mate - I get all of my files from www.artcotools.com For the raw stock, its a mixed bag. I have copied the text below from another post that pretty much covers it - Cheers :) "Gage plate: www.hales.com.au - A good range of high carbon steel plate stock, will do over the phone and post orders. Silver Steel (drill rod) - Visit your local Blackwoods to put in the order, they carry everything from 1/8th inch up to about 1.5 inch (and metric equivalents) and ship fairly quickly for an instore pickup Brass: www.georgeweston.com.au or www.georgewhite.com.au - Very expensive material and very expensive shipping from either BNE or MEL, but they carry everything you could ever want including bronze, copper etc Mild steel: www.mesupplies.com.au - Wayne is excellent for the small MS rod stock, small plate stock and other model engineering sized stock. Exotics like Invar etc: www.iantcobb.co.uk - Ian is excellent to deal with, carries a lot of the clock only stuff too like pivot steel, silvering compound, dial wax etc The other thing is to hit the local machine shops to see what they have sitting on their offcuts shelf or scrap bin. If you turn up with some folding, they often will let you have some of the best stuff for very little, particularly if you let them know you're a home machinist. Also find the local aluminium fabricators (boats builders, trailers etc) and do the same. Al is excellent for making adapter plates, stand offs etc as well as simple practice items, and its way easier (and cheaper) to source in our part of the world than steel. And lastly find the local sheet metal shop (ie the folks who work exclusively with sheet metal using a magna bend, spot welding etc to fabricate from sheet metal, not a general machine shop) You will get the 0.7mm to 4mm sheet stock very cheaply for making more substantial structures."
Clickspring
2020-05-11 01:37:20 +0000 UTCYes spot on mate - Bergeon 6807 EF https://www.esslinger.com/diamantine-polishing-powder-extra-fine-15-grams/ - Cheers :)
Clickspring
2020-05-11 01:32:59 +0000 UTCAs always you know you're doing incredible work when people are excited about long videos. Thanks for you time, incredible production value, and of course the incredible knowledge.
Myles Farrell
2020-05-11 01:27:47 +0000 UTCHey Chris, I was wondering where you get all your raw stock? Also where do you get your quality files?
Dallin Durham
2020-05-11 01:05:29 +0000 UTCI'm betting it's watchmaker's diamantine?
Martin Anderson
2020-05-11 01:03:23 +0000 UTCHa ha! Thank you mate! More on that pixie dust as soon as I have a good excuse! Yes not super critical on the button orientation in the button cutter holder, but certainly as close as you can get it by eye is fine - there are quite a few small compromises like that in the method that can be addressed if you add a bit more complexity, but as always its a trade off - Cheers :)
Clickspring
2020-05-11 00:36:12 +0000 UTCWhere do I begin... First - Perfect ending to the day, thank you Chris. Second - I am guessing that the indexing of the buttons is not extremely critical or you would have keyed or slotted the button shanks? Last but not least - The button head finish... OMFG.... You need to talk more about that pixie dust you used. I don't think I have seen that in any videos yet. As always, thanks for another amazing video.
Chris Muncy
2020-05-11 00:26:42 +0000 UTC
