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Constructing A Byzantine Sundial-Calendar - Part 7 (Making The Gnomon & Support Rings)

Hi Folks,

In this episode I complete the final components of the mechanism, please enjoy!

Cheers,

Chris.

ps  If you're following along with your own build in real time you can now download all of the drawings in the one document (see below this post) 


Direct video links:

Youtube: https://youtu.be/6oxn3Rjo0RE

Vimeo: TBA


 -------------- Video Notes: ---------------

Project Plans

Clickspring Byzantine Sundial-Calendar - Inch.PDF 

Clickspring Byzantine Sundial-Calendar - Metric.PDF 

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Constructing A Byzantine Sundial-Calendar - Part 7 (Making The Gnomon & Support Rings)

Comments

Yet to be made :)

Clickspring

Where's the last video? Love your work Chris!!!

Conor Keane

Terrific to hear that mate!

Clickspring

Keep up the good work, Chris! My old class is still using your prints. I'm actually going to be a tool and die maker erdie July, all because you've inspired me! Love your material! Never give up!inspired

Thomas Moore

There's no particular benefit over the nearest metric or fine imperial threads, and you can generally move to the nearest equivalent without much issue. But like you, when I was setting up the shop for clockmaking I purchased a tap and die set that covers the whole BA range so its what I tend to use now rather than buy more taps/dies. This book: (Amazon affiliate link: https://amzn.to/2Mf1MPn ) is brilliant. There is a set of conversion charts at the back for all thread standards, that I refer to at least once a day. Whatever set you go for, you will be able to convert a given project to your tap and die set with ease - Cheers :)

Clickspring

I notice you use BA screws, the clock i'm planning for uses them and i was planning to buy a tap die set. Is there a reason you choose to use them here?

Philip Bouchon

Didn't see that! Thanks.

Joshua

Hi Joshua, yes there are some buffering issues occasionally with Vimeo - try the direct video link for YT that is below the post text - Cheers :)

Clickspring

For some reason since you've switched to Vimeo all your videos skip and stutter when I use Chromecast to send them to my tv. Never happened before 😣

Joshua

Thank you!

Clickspring

Awesome work. You explain technical things so well they ALMOST don’t look extremely delicate and complex.

Spacellama

Hopefully soon - the process is excruciatingly slow, and entirely out of my control. Can't wait to share the detail :)

Clickspring

Cheers mate :)

Clickspring

When will you be able to spill the beans on your secret project?

Clayton Firth

Awe inspiring work Chris. Can’t wait to see it assembled.

Clayton Firth

Thanks, I figured that was the answer but it wouldn't hurt to ask.

Ben Manthey

Cheers mate :)

Clickspring

Very nice, Chris. Be good to finally see it in action in the next video. :-) One suggestion: tinning each end of the split ring before threading the smaller ring onto it might help further reduce heat colouring of the smaller ring by making the final soldering together of the ends of the split ring easier and faster. Cheers.

Sean Kirby

Yeah, that was particularly stunning camera work, even by Chris's usual high standards. :-)

Sean Kirby

Terrific to hear that mate :)

Clickspring

Hi Ben, glad you enjoyed it, no on the SW files, I prefer to keep them controlled - Cheers :)

Clickspring

You have given me motivation to at least try the hand tool before resorting to a power tool for almost ANY job!

Jeffro

Beautiful work as always

Jeffro

Fantastic as always. Any chance of getting the Solidworks files? Thanks!

Ben Manthey

Thanks for the answer! I really admire what you do. Taking the time not only to make these things and share them but also to answer questions about it is really inspirational.

Michael Fisher

Hi Leo, water (generally as brine) gives a faster quench than oil, and so brings with it the slightly elevated risk of cracking, particularly for larger parts. Although for the steel used here (EN8) with a small screw, either quench medium would be ok. Definitely worth an OST, I will add it to the list - Cheers :)

Clickspring

Hi Michael, I generally use Tix solder and flux (amazon links below) and I get the clock pins from Meadows and Passmore: <a href="http://m-p.co.uk" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">http://m-p.co.uk</a> - Cheers :)

Clickspring

Thank you John!

Clickspring

Is there a reason for quenching in oil instead of water? If so, the differences in various techniques might make for an interesting Old School Tips video... Also, is there a particular reason you decided not to blue the gnomon pin? Just wondering if it was a purely aesthetic choice or if there was some technical reason like wear on the part or something?

Leo G.

Chris, I was just wondering what type/brand of solder and flux do you use? Also where do you get your tapered pins?

Michael Fisher

Amazing work Chris!

OldSaltyPossum

Cheers mate :)

Clickspring

Ha ha! Always a bit nerve wracking towards the end of a build! Cheers mate :)

Clickspring

Thank you mate :)

Clickspring

Cheers mate :)

Clickspring

Cheers Max!

Clickspring

Prototype in progress :)

Clickspring

Another great journey comes to an end! Can't wait for the next project :)

Boguslaw Smalec

Wow. Those 18 minutes went by fast. Thank you, Chris!

Max Jonsson

ahh perfect timing, just arrived from to watch more work-related videos :D I'm really excited to see this getting to completion!

Strothy2

Gday Chris, I got nervous when you started to bend the arm why I don't know coz I knew you would pull it off TFS G :)

Graeme Brumfitt

wonderfully amazing, as always. Love it! thank you for sharing!

Joris van 't Land

Excellent as always! Thanks for sharing

Tom Wazny

Yes certainly Markos, I will show how it is used in the next video - Cheers :)

Clickspring

Excellent Chris! I really like the close ups! Is there any chance you will show how to operate it, in particular reading the time with the sun?

Markos Skoulatos

<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B8Y146v8HxE&list=PLZioPDnFPNsETq9h35dgQq80Ryx-beOli" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B8Y146v8HxE&list=PLZioPDnFPNsETq9h35dgQq80Ryx-beOli</a> - Cheers :)

Clickspring

Thank you mate :)

Clickspring

I'd like to view your clockmaking series again. How do I do that?

Greg Nixon

Brilliant video again. Awe inspiring machine work.

Greg Nixon

Thank you mate! I found a nice threaded filter that gives me 2x on the camcorder, thrilled with how close it gets into some of the work shots :)

Clickspring

Simply STUNNING camera work on this one Chris! The close-up views are superb! This project could continue for years and I'd continue to watch it!

Brian Ullmark

Thank you mate :)

Clickspring

Chris, thank you for making me speechless with wonder, once again.

Leonard Solomon

Cheers Ralph :)

Clickspring

Yes - the next video will cover the start to finish of a new (to me) process, as well as a few things about the mechanism design that I modified from the prototype - Cheers :)

Clickspring

Two things that really help me are 1./ Use a light to illuminate the work from above, and then lightly cross grain the surface to catch the light. When working, watch what happens to that cross grain with each stroke, it will tell you right away if you're dropping the cut left or right. 2./ Align the work with the natural lines of the shop (walls, bench, floor etc) Its surprising how much the peripheral cues subliminally affect what you do with your hands - There is a bit more detail on this here: <a href="https://youtu.be/h4KaiG7CpSQ" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">https://youtu.be/h4KaiG7CpSQ</a> - Cheers :)

Clickspring

Chris I see you use roll or round solder, have you ever used ribbon solder ? It is very thin and can be cut so you can put it in the joint and well save you clean up This has been quite a journey well done

Ralph McCoy

I generally use a leaded free machining brass, and yes it will shoot off as a fine powder at certain speeds and depth of cut. One thing I do to avoid this is go for max depth cuts wherever possible, with a relatively slow rpm. Brass will cut well at just about any speed, but slow with a deep cut gives nice big chips that fall away that are much easier to manage - Cheers :)

Clickspring

Yes its a chunk of pumice

Clickspring

Thank you Stefan!

Clickspring

With the series coming to an end: Are there any plans on making a "Mistakes made and how I fixed them" video?

SkaveRat

Chris, Practice Practice

Ralph McCoy

Chris, when filing parts how do you keep from filing on an angle ??

Ralph McCoy

What alloy of brass do you use? You seem to get nice flaky chips from it, whereas the brass I have (mostly offcuts, maybe 385?) flies apart in an unholy powder that gets into everything...

Damien Miller

Chris, when you are soldering what type of "rock" is that ?? pumice ??

Ralph McCoy

Awesome video, Chris!

Stefan


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