NokiMo
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[STATUS] - August 2017 (Update Aug 29th, 7:00pm AEST)

(Update Aug 29th, 7:00pm AEST)

I have just finished shooting a new TGT on the furnace - I'll narrate it tomorrow, and expect it to be uploaded the following day

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(Update Aug 28th, 9:30am AEST)

Pouring some copper and aluminium with these molds today for the next TGT

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(Update Aug 24th, 8:00pm AEST)

A1 is in progress - the teeth have been cut, and the driving rectangle marked out for filing. I find it interesting that the Maker chose a rectangle instead of a square. It confines the mating arbor/handle of the original device to only 2 possible orientations, rather than 4 - Possibly implies a flat paddle grip instead of a circular wheel handle, but so far the true significance (if any) escapes me.

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(Update Aug 23rd, 9:30pm AEST)

The band from yesterdays post is now soldered into place. Note the tiny spherical globules of residue solder in the foreground just in front of the hole (you may need to zoom in on the pic). There are several similar sized radio dense spheres in the CT scans of the original device - A sure sign that solder was used during the fabrication of the original device.

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(Update Aug 22th, 8:30pm AEST)

Experimented today with a hand held former to shape a piece of sheet brass into a band.

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(Update Aug 20th, 12:30pm AEST)

This won't make it to a regular video, but I thought it worth sharing anyway - a short video of the brilliant green Boron flame generated when powdered Boric Acid is ignited with a standard LPG torch

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(Update Aug 18th, 3:00pm AEST)

Hmm... that stock looks familiar! Soon to become the AM's Input Crown Wheel Assembly

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(Update Aug 12th, 4:30pm AEST)

On the home stretch of the edit for BSC Ep 5 - will be recording dialogue tomorrow

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(Update Aug 10th, 9:00pm AEST)

The beginning of the 7 tooth ratchet - 1 tooth for each day of the week

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(Update Aug 9th, 4:00pm AEST)

What's there not to love about slicing into a nice fresh chunk of brass!

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(Update Aug 7th, 9:00pm AEST)

The rest of the BSC wheel arbors - I still have to complete the input arbor to complete the set

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(Update Aug 6th, 7:00pm AEST)

A tiny little arbor for the Byzantine Sundial Calendar

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(Update July 29th, 7:30pm AEST)       

I've spent the last 2 days doing some prototype castings for a future video.  I'm loving the new furnace, super fast to temperature and easy to move around - here is the first brass pour from today (SHORT VIDEO) 

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(Update July 24th, 10:30pm AEST)       

I finished the narration and editing for The Antikythera Mechanism Episode 4 today - It's uploading at present, and should be finished uploading in about approx 10 hours.

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(Update July 21st, 12:00pm AEST)      

Its one of the oldest methods for fastening 2 metal parts together, yet there is surprisingly little written in the common texts about rivet setting/peening technique.

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(Update July 17th, 8:40pm AEST)     

They will experience only shear load, but I'm not taking any chances with these rivets - putting a decent chamfer on the hole so that they can really spread out when peened.

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(Update July 16th, 9:20pm AEST)    

A few viewers have asked that I investigate some traditional marking out possibilities - the most popular suggestion being candle soot. It was very easy to apply, and I managed to avoid spilling wax on the dividing plate which was a relief! Full results in the video

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(Update July 15th, 8:00pm AEST)  

One thing I love about this device is that what we now regard as standard clockmaking techniques are all applicable. But what was it like to have been solving these issues for the very first time? Tonight I made a couple of bosses/pins to help bring B1, B2 and a spacer plate into alignment for marking, drilling and then riveting.

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(Update July 14th, 9:00pm AEST)   

Shooting has continued over the last few days for the next AM episode. This evening I've been putting those new files to work - this is B2 in progress, soon to be riveted to B1 - (and not a banana in sight...)

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The raw materials for The Antikythera Mechanism Episode #4, The Input Crown Wheel Assembly.

[STATUS] - August 2017 (Update Aug 29th, 7:00pm AEST) [STATUS] - August 2017 (Update Aug 29th, 7:00pm AEST) [STATUS] - August 2017 (Update Aug 29th, 7:00pm AEST) [STATUS] - August 2017 (Update Aug 29th, 7:00pm AEST) [STATUS] - August 2017 (Update Aug 29th, 7:00pm AEST) [STATUS] - August 2017 (Update Aug 29th, 7:00pm AEST) [STATUS] - August 2017 (Update Aug 29th, 7:00pm AEST) [STATUS] - August 2017 (Update Aug 29th, 7:00pm AEST) [STATUS] - August 2017 (Update Aug 29th, 7:00pm AEST) [STATUS] - August 2017 (Update Aug 29th, 7:00pm AEST) [STATUS] - August 2017 (Update Aug 29th, 7:00pm AEST) [STATUS] - August 2017 (Update Aug 29th, 7:00pm AEST) [STATUS] - August 2017 (Update Aug 29th, 7:00pm AEST) [STATUS] - August 2017 (Update Aug 29th, 7:00pm AEST) [STATUS] - August 2017 (Update Aug 29th, 7:00pm AEST) [STATUS] - August 2017 (Update Aug 29th, 7:00pm AEST) [STATUS] - August 2017 (Update Aug 29th, 7:00pm AEST) [STATUS] - August 2017 (Update Aug 29th, 7:00pm AEST)

Comments

Wow - blued and gilded armour. That would have been something to see... Thank you for sharing mate :)

Clickspring

<a href="http://www3.imperial.ac.uk/newsandeventspggrp/imperialcollege/newssummary/news_28-7-2017-10-15-56" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">http://www3.imperial.ac.uk/newsandeventspggrp/imperialcollege/newssummary/news_28-7-2017-10-15-56</a>

Luke Pettit

Thanks Adam :)

Clickspring

Will do Ian :)

Clickspring

I'll be really looking forward to a video detailing the furnace and build components Chris, the longer and more detail the better mate!

Ian Douglas

For your historic layout fluid I think a possible suggestion would be a strong pigment (such as carbon black (India ink), indigo or red ochre) with a shellac and either an ethyl alcohol or methanol base. All of these ingredients would be historically plausible and I would imagine that the shellac would increase durability while the alcohol would speed up drying times.

Adam Seymour

Hey Drew, I had a local sheet metal shop make the basic cylinder, lid and hoop shapes from 0.8mm sheet metal. The drum and lid are lined with Kaowool (50mm), rigidised and then given a hotface of ITC100. The base is cast refractory and the burner is the standard Reil burner. The only difference from the normal burner arrangement is that I've cast a threaded fitting into the base, so that the tuyere is essentially integral to the base. I was shooting for a result that has a very low thermal mass, so that it heats up as fast as possible, and is light enough to be moved around easily, stacked on a shelf etc. So far its working out great. I will do a video showing it in detail it as soon as I can. Cheers mate :)

Clickspring

Chris, sounds like you built a new furnace and like it. Can you point us to the design you used?

Drew

Hi, any chance you let me know the name of the song from the brass pouring video? I know I've heard something like it before but I can't put my finger on it!

Hey Chris - I'm shooting for this one to be up for $3 Patrons by Monday night :)

Clickspring

Hi Chris, fantastic work with the very frequent updates, please keep them coming mate! Any hints as to when we might see the next main episode? I'm re-watching the earlier ones and the BSC videos as I type. :) I understand if you prefer to keep us in suspense though... Cheers!

Chris Talbot

Australian Jewellers supplies, <a href="http://www.jewellerssupplies.com.au/" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">http://www.jewellerssupplies.com.au/</a> lots of stuff, but if you can get to the store in Sydney Mon-Fri they have a very wide selection of Valorbe files. very helpful over the phone as well. Hales also stock tools, including some of the lager sizes of good files - worth calling George White in Melbourne will cut brass etc provided you are happy with the standard width of the sheet. This makes them a pretty economical alternative to other suppliers. good delivery interstate and easy to deal with on phone.

David Paterson

Sure thing Lee, here is a copy/paste from another post: Gage plate: www.hales.com.au - A good range of high carbon steel plate stock, will do over the phone and post orders Silver Steel (drill rod) - Visit the local blackwoods to put in the order, they ship fairly quickly for an instore pickup Brass: www.georgeweston.com.au or www.geogewhite.com.au - Very expensive shipping from either BNE or MEL, but they carry everything you could ever want including bronze, copper etc Mild steel: www.mesupplies.com.au - Wayne is excellent for the small MS rod stock, small plate stock and other model engineering sized stock. Exotics like Invar etc: www.iantcobb.co.uk - Ian is excellent to deal with, carries a lot of the clock only stuff too like pivot steel, silvering compound, dial wax etc The other thing is to hit the local machine shops to see what they have sitting on their offcuts shelf. If you turn up with some folding, they often will let you have some of the best stuff for very little, particularly if you let them know you're a home machinist. Also find the local aluminium fabricators (boats builders, trailers etc) and do the same. Al is excellent for making adapter plates, stand offs etc as well as simple practice items, and its way easier (and cheaper) to source in our part of the world than steel. And lastly find the local sheet metal shop (ie the folks who work exclusively with sheet metal using a magna bend, spot welding etc to fabricate from sheet metal, not a general machine shop) You will get the 0.7mm to 4mm sheet stock very cheaply for making more substantial structures. Cheers, Chris.

Clickspring

Hi Chris Being new to this i was just wondering do you have a list of web addresses for the suppliers that you use for your raw stock, if so where could i find it , being new i just dont know where to start thanks in advance in that you will be able to help a fellow aussie out :) regards Lee

Hey Terry, the last time I purchased HSS for my gravers I got it from Enco. They got bought out by MSC a while back, so I guess start there? Cheers mate :)

Clickspring

Ha ha! its a rabbit hole Alex, but a fun one :)

Clickspring

Hi Chris I sure like your projects . and will enjoy building them , One question I have , Our mutual departed friend bill smith used M46 tool steel for his gravers and he put the source in his books and gave me the phone # to them . I can't buy this steel anymore because they were bought by china and it was discontinued . is there another source for it that you use or know of sure want some . Thanks Chris . Have a great day

Terry L Lembke

every video I watch brings me one step closer to another expensive hobby.

Alex

Your support means a lot to me mate, thank you :)

Clickspring

I didn't think anything could top the skeleton clock project. I was wrong. It's really amazing work you're doing here and I feel privileged to be a part of it in some small way. Thanks Chris.

Dan Cowsill

Hey Neil, there is a bit of info here: <a href="https://www.patreon.com/posts/tgt-1-shop-made-8384100">https://www.patreon.com/posts/tgt-1-shop-made-8384100</a> and I will be adding to this series as time permits. Cheers mate :)

Clickspring

Hey Adam - Yes they're both going live in a few minutes. I needed to keep them together because they are so closely related, hence the delay on the first one. Cheers :)

Clickspring

Hey Ralph, this is a status post to keep you updated through the month, between video releases. I update the post every few days with a bit of info on what I'm currently doing for the next video. Cheers mate :)

Clickspring

Chris - have you done a video of your workshop and tools? It's amazing what you turn out and I'd be curious to see how it's organized and what you can do with a relatively small selection of machine tools!

Hey Chris, the antikythera fragment #4 has been up for 3usd patreons for over a week, any chance us poor supporters can see it yet?

Adam Seymour

Good day Chris, Pushed wrong button. Is this a video ?

Ralph McCoy

Good day Chris,

Ralph McCoy

Thank you Marton, very much appreciate your support mate :)

Clickspring

It's amazing to see how much effort you put into this project and all the other. After binge-watching you other project where you've made the clock I couldn't think of not being a Patreon of you even if it's a small amount of money. Keep up the good work. Cheers

Marton Nagy

Cheers Gregor :)

Clickspring

Terrific to have you on board mate :)

Clickspring

I realize that bronze is expensive but the amount of care and energy and dedication you put into your efforts seems to me to warrant a better metal than brass. Keep up the excellent work and beautiful productions!

Gregor Shapiro

great stuff! I'm a newer patron and love your vids. Super excited for the next installment

Paul Miller

Probably best if I don't add it all up, I might give myself a bit of a fright :)

Clickspring

Ha ha! Wouldn't that be nice! They're pretty good for some things like the solvents, gas, CA glue. But no good for quality metals. I've copied this answer from another post from a few weeks back, but it covers most of the materials that I use frequently - Cheers mate :) ----------- Gage plate: www.hales.com.au - A good range of high carbon steel plate stock, will do over the phone and post orders Silver Steel (drill rod) - Visit the local blackwoods to put in the order, they ship fairly quickly for an instore pickup Brass: www.georgeweston.com.au or www.geogewhite.com.au - Very expensive shipping from either BNE or MEL, but they carry everything you could ever want including bronze, copper etc Mild steel: www.mesupplies.com.au - Wayne is excellent for the small MS rod stock, small plate stock and other model engineering sized stock. Exotics like Invar etc: www.iantcobb.co.uk - Ian is excellent to deal with, carries a lot of the clock only stuff too like pivot steel, silvering compound, dial wax etc The other thing is to hit the local machine shops to see what they have sitting on their offcuts shelf. If you turn up with some folding, they often will let you have some of the best stuff for very little, particularly if you let them know you're a home machinist. Also find the local aluminium fabricators (boats builders, trailers etc) and do the same. Al is excellent for making adapter plates, stand offs etc as well as simple practice items, and its way easier (and cheaper) to source in our part of the world than steel. And lastly find the local sheet metal shop (ie the folks who work exclusively with sheet metal using a magna bend, spot welding etc to fabricate from sheet metal, not a general machine shop) You will get the 0.7mm to 4mm sheet stock very cheaply for making more substantial structures. -----------

Clickspring

Hey Chris, where do you buy your material? I doubt Bunnings stocks this sort of thing!

My name is Rick

Would love to see a video on costs for a project like this.

Dylan T

I agree with you Chris, there had to be others. The adapted use of woodworking techniques in the known example also suggests to me that early gen prototypes would possibly have been made of cheaper material like wood, so therefore were unlikely to have survived long after creation. Michael Wright (<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Michael_T._Wright)" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Michael_T._Wright)</a> has speculated that other bronze versions probably ended up being sold for scrap once they inevitably stopped working, such was the value of bronze in the day. And that the recovered wreck was "fortunate" to have been lost at sea, and out of reach. It would be most helpful if another were to be found, or even another descendant like the Byzantine Sundial Calendar. I think it remains a real possibility with the recent advances in sea floor mapping tech.

Clickspring

I look forward to every episode of this series so much. It's a beautiful machine, and wonderful to see it brought back to life. It makes one wonder why, or how, the technology didn't survive. This couldn't have been the only piece with such advanced workings - the maker would certainly have made simpler machines when learning the process.

Chris


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