Home Machine Shop Tool Making - Making A Versatile Bluing Tray
Added 2015-08-05 09:08:22 +0000 UTC
Comments
Righto, got it. Now I want to go outside and solder something...
Clickspring
2015-08-16 05:21:03 +0000 UTCHey Tom looks like your message got truncated - send again if you have time.
Clickspring
2015-08-16 05:17:20 +0000 UTCHmmmm....this comment interface is a bit odd. If I hit return, it posts? Anyway, the details: feel free to slather on the flux outside the joint proper if you want to limit oxidation elsewhere. Also, if you make what's usually termed a solder pick, as the solder flows you can literally drag the molten solder along the joint, helping to push the flux out of the way and insuring a tight, continuous joint. Finally, that glassy melted flux is hell on the edges of steel tools. Best to use some weak acid (swimming pool pH reducer works great) or simply boil it in water to get all the glass off before you do anything else. Might not matter with a beefy lathe tool but it will kill a needle file or jeweler's saw blade right quick.
Tom Colson
2015-08-16 05:14:48 +0000 UTCI hope it helps! A couple of other little details:
Tom Colson
2015-08-16 05:09:32 +0000 UTCI hope it helps! A couple of other little details:
Tom Colson
2015-08-16 05:09:32 +0000 UTCHa! yes the pits did bug me! Hopefully for the last time thanks to your brilliant advice - very well explained. I will remember this for next time. Thank you from the land of Jewellery and aluminium :)
Clickspring
2015-08-16 05:04:10 +0000 UTCThe tray is still great even with a few pits in the brazed seam. If they bug you, next time you might try a couple of ideas from the jewelry world: many more but smaller pieces of solder and MUCH less flux in the joint. More bits around the seam means less distance to flow and less flux means less stuff for the solder to push out of the way. When soldering jewelry-scale pieces, the rule I was taught was that if you can see the flux in the joint, you've got too much. If you have enough torch to get in, get things hot in a hurry, and get out, a little paste flux will still keep things clean until the solder flows. I'm pretty sure these principles still apply in places where jewellery is made instead of jewelry. Looking forward to seeing the tray, well seasoned, in future vids. Best, Tom
Tom Colson
2015-08-16 03:11:23 +0000 UTCHi Dean, I'm not sure of the commercial name, but the supplier I get it from lists it as SB45 grade: (<a href="http://www.mesupplies.com.au/catalog.php?p=10&sn=14&en=14&name2=SILVER%20STEEL)" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">http://www.mesupplies.com.au/catalog.php?p=10&sn=14&en=14&name2=SILVER%20STEEL)</a> The flux I'm using is Ezy Weld 602 flux, which is a flouride/borate based flux. The join did end up with a few tiny little cavity flaws, so I think I should maybe have used just a bit more solder. I've used it quite a bit since shooting this video, it's doing a great job, and now looks like a working tool, very well baked!
Clickspring
2015-08-05 23:18:48 +0000 UTCChris, I admire the way your silver solder flowed once the right temp was reached. I noticed your solder comes in thin rods that you snipped to the desired size. Would share with us the commercial name of that solder ? It would seem to be easier to use than what I have been using all these years. Cheers, Mate !
Dean Armentrout
2015-08-05 22:54:13 +0000 UTCThank you PJ! The plate version is drilled clearance size, to accept a given screw. it really only works well for short screws, although its a lot quicker and easier than the shavings tray - just heat it up, and then drop each screw in one at a time. They change color, and are lifted off at the appropriate shade of blue.
Clickspring
2015-08-05 19:25:42 +0000 UTCBeen hungry for another great quality video. Beautiful build! Curious how you use the flat plate version? Thanks Chris! ~PJ
PJ
2015-08-05 15:59:41 +0000 UTC
