NokiMo
indiainmotion
indiainmotion

patreon


Welcome to Zanskar

Hello everyone. First of all, apologies for the long silence and the lack of updates over the past few months. I just returned home to Chennai after a long winter in the remote reaches of Zanskar. 

It was an interesting trip. Full off unexpected twists and turns. I had low expectations when I went to Ladakh last December. Most of the places I regularly visit (Changthang etc) were out of bounds to tourists due to Covid. So I decided to buy a used car (a Gypsy) and just drive around Ladakh, camping by the roadside and keeping away from the villages. I was all set to buy the Gypsy when suddenly I saw an update on Twitter that the road to Zanskar was open. I did not know what the Covid situation was like in Zanskar and did not know if outsiders were welcome or not.

I decided to take the gamble and a few days later I was in Padum, all excited to spend my first winter in Zanskar. But that excitement was short lived as 3 days later I got frostbitten in all my toes and spent the next 35 days recuperating in the small village of Pischu. The long wait was frustrating as my feet showed no signs of healing. Infact is has been over 100 days  now and one of toes is still bloody and yet to heal fully. 

Anyway, I managed to visit the Phukthar monastery towards the middle of February. And it is no exaggeration when I say that the visit to Phukthar was one of the best experiences of my life. I had initially planned to spend a few days at the monastery, but ended up spending over 20 days there. And the only reason I left Phukthar was to call home and tell my parents that I was doing alright. Phukthar did not have any telephone connectivity and neither did any of the villages in its vicinity. And to make matters worse the road to Padum was blocked due to many avalanches and I had to walk for 3 days inorder to get a network signal to call home.

Needless to say, I'am smitten with Zanskar and can see myself visiting the region regularly in the coming months and years. But for now, my immediately plan for the next couple of months is to start working on my videos from Zanskar. Hopefully they will  turn out interesting. Fingers crossed.


Welcome to Zanskar

Comments

Yes..So well captured..You inspire..Looking forward to do Zanskar..

Thanks Vivek. Really appreciate your support

Looking forward to this series! :)

Burning your feet to restore circulation sounds like medieval torture! A toboggan is just a light wooden box with a sheet metal base. Just the size of your pack so when you come off the snow you can tie it to your backpack. Google" toboggan images" and look for the simplest design. Good luck Saravana

I was a bit careless when I got the frostbite. The day was quite warm and sunny, so I went hiking with my thin pair of socks. It was fine until the sun went down (at around 2pm) and then I felt really cold. My feet were like blocks of ice I finished pitching my tent at 5pm. I was so cold and tired that I went straight into my sleeping bag without cooking dinner. The night was quite warm inside the sleeping bag, so I figured that my feet would be fine. Infact it was only after 3 days that I realised that they were frostbitten. The locals burnt my toes with a red hot knife. It was effective in bringing back feeling to my toes and there was no danger of frostbite after that. But the burn wounds took a long time to heal. They did heal eventually, all except for my right big toe which is still in the process of healing. I will be more careful in the future. And a toboggan is a real good idea. I need to figure out someway to get it to India.

We cycled with our family in Zanskar in 2018. Amazing place. Here is our video:https://youtu.be/2roGv-2KpeI

Saravana in severe cold you need insulated boots, they have a thick felt sock inside. The Indian Army has them so perhaps you can get a pair from them .Otherwise Sorel make them model Caribou. They are higher than walking boots to prevent snow entry. Maybe you can pull a small sled/tobogan so you don't sink in the snow, this allows you to take more gear. A hot water bottle can also help to warm your feet. best wishes with recovery.

Yes, Shade seems to be a very interesting place. I thought about visiting this winter but decided against it due to the frostbite. Actually I got frostbitten because of Shade. In December some of the villagers from Stongde went to Shade to collect their Yaks grazing on the other side of Stongde La. I tried to go with them, but my fitness levels were not great after the lockdown and could not keep up with them. So I camped near the Stongde Dogsa waiting for the Yak herders to return. I spent 3 nights camping there and this is when I got frostbitten.

Good to see you are on the move again and Enjoying Phugtar, up river is a magic lake Nyalo Kuntse and Shade village you could get some stories there.

Hi Saravana, I thought you were locked up in Chennai but you were busy freezing toes , don't do this again!

Better now. 9 toes healed, just one left to go.

Quite an adventure! How are your toes now?


Related Creators