Exclusive Plans: The Craftsman Table
Added 2024-04-01 11:00:07 +0000 UTCFriends:
You just saw our first video on the Craftsman table, and we're going to have full-color plans, free to Patrons, but many of you might want to get a jump on this project or even build along with me.
Before the full plans are ready, we've got a simple set of measured drawings. These are the plans I'm using for the build and you should find them approachable if you've made a couple of pieces already. These plans are a Patron EXCLUSIVE and will not be released to the general public. (They're attached to this post.)
A couple of quick notes:
1.) All the stock is 4/4 Oak, but 3/4 is fine and you don't have to use oak.
2.) The original table is all screwed joints, but we're replacing the lower joints with half-laps, just like I showed a few weeks ago. I'll probably use the "dovetail" half-lap because it looks nice.
3.) The cleat under the top is screwed in from underneath.
4.) The joints where the legs meet the top are still going to be screwed. Do not glue these joints; the top is guaranteed to move and those joints will fail. Screws are the best move here. (Maybe dowels, but I'm not sure).
That's it. Good luck to anyone who wants to get a jump on this project. It's a good one!
--Rex
Comments
Thoughts about doing pocket screws into the legs from under the top? Keeps the fasteners from showing too much
Michael Long
2024-04-03 21:17:36 +0000 UTCI thought the dowel would flex more than a screw, as nails flex but screws didn't? The glue issue I can understand, though.
Geoffrey Wilson
2024-04-02 14:35:56 +0000 UTCThe original might have grass screws. They're so tarnished, that it's hard to tell. Regardless, you're entirely right. Brass is the way to go.
Rex Krueger
2024-04-02 12:35:19 +0000 UTCThat is strange. Patreon is a mystery.
Rex Krueger
2024-04-02 12:34:14 +0000 UTCOh, and I think you'll need to maintain proportions to keep the table looking good. But increasing the overall size is just fine.
Rex Krueger
2024-04-02 12:33:59 +0000 UTCThe issue is flex. Screwed joints will allow the top to move. Dowels will probably work, but be careful to keep the glue on the dowel and not get too much in the rest of the joint. That way, a little motion is still possible.
Rex Krueger
2024-04-02 12:32:49 +0000 UTCExcellent. We're always trying to make things clear.
Rex Krueger
2024-04-02 12:30:16 +0000 UTCConsidering how well oak and iron get along, you'd want to use brass screws. Or dowels. Walnut dowel plugs would be traditional for craftsman-style furniture. Greene & Greene was known for using square plugs and chamfering them into pyramids IIRC.
Michael Bennett
2024-04-01 21:29:09 +0000 UTCIf you raise the height, you might want to keep the proportions similar to the original. 16-18" seems like a good diameter.
Michael Bennett
2024-04-01 21:14:45 +0000 UTCI think Rex's version of this table looks more refined that the original from which he drew his inspiration. It's a matter of a few key details. I know how I would attach the top to the legs, but I look forward to seeing Rex's solution.
Brian Taylor
2024-04-01 12:47:17 +0000 UTCMy initial reaction is that 2 feet (24") would make the table look tippy, i.e., out of proportion. My go-to height for side tables is about 18", same as the standard height of a chair or stool. That said, as a creator you have the freedom to make things that work for you. Try a few scaled sketches of the piece to get a feel for the proportions that you like.
Brian Taylor
2024-04-01 12:32:36 +0000 UTCCuriously, I never received the e-mail notification of the build video. I checked my inbox, trash, and spam folders: nothing. Fortunately, this plans post alerted me to the existence of the build video.
Brian Taylor
2024-04-01 12:15:28 +0000 UTCWhat would be the danger of using dowels, and if we were to increase the height to 2', do you think there is a tipping issue? 16" is pretty low.
Geoffrey Wilson
2024-04-01 11:56:58 +0000 UTCThanks. Thats just what I needed to understand the previous video
Madeleine Yeh
2024-04-01 11:44:11 +0000 UTC
