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Rex Krueger
Rex Krueger

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Early Access Video: Thrift-store Wooden Planes

Friends: 

My buddy Sam (who is a Patron!) recently bought a couple of planes from the junk store. I offered to fix them up and ended up going on a restoration adventure. Both of these planes had a lot of challenges, so the video is long, but it also tells you almost everything you need to get a beat-up old plane going again. 

Next week: choosing and using wooden planes in the modern shop. 

(Ah, who am I kidding? I don't have a modern shop!)

--Rex

PS: The handle templates mentioned in the video are attached to this post. Hope they're helpful!

Early Access Video: Thrift-store Wooden Planes

Comments

I just saw this video just yesterday and really enjoyed it. I bought a bunch of wooden planes decades ago at Brimfield but sold almost all in my then store/gallery mostly for shelf display, could kick myself now! The one I have left is a continental style plane stamped GERMANY with a 2 stamped on the end. The iron is a very tight fit exacerbated by the low winter humidity. Is it acceptable to sand the sides of the "throat" to loosen the fit?

John Kellas

He probably most definitely does not.

Sam Marcum

Very nice video. I love to restore old wooden planes. This one I had already for years with a plan to make shooting board plane of it. Now I did it and it came out nice

Arie van den Ende

"Modern Shop"?? Phhht. I'll settle for having a clean(ish) shop.

Eric Paisley

Ill see if i can post some pictures on the board in a couple of days.

Bas Noblesse

You're totally right! I've just never seen one that actually fit unless someone made it to fit.

Rex Krueger

I think buying these on ebay is a big risk. I don't do it.

Rex Krueger

I bet you can get some lovely Dutch planes that we can't get in the State. I'm a little jealous.

Rex Krueger

I am so happy with this video. I do appreciate all the metal plane videos... but here in the Netherlands, you can find wooden planes by the dozens for pretty cheap Metal planes however are a lot more difficult to get. Most second hand metal planes I find, are sold as actual planes, instead of a restoration project. I have a couple of wooden 2nd hand planes, but i am having difficulty restoring+ setting them up. That is why I always come back to my Stanley no 4 for allmost al my shavings. it would be nice to be able to restore and use one of the wooden jack planes. Thanks a bunch for this one, and the follow up videos :D

Bas Noblesse

Took a chance on the cheap Chinese wooden plane that you featured last year and found that, after tuning, sharpening etc to be a fantastic addition at virtually no cost. I have since been looking at old wooden planes on eBay as due to lockdowns in the UK cannot get out to look for them. I’d love to get one or two to restore. Unfortunately I don’t want to take a chance on eBay, they’re not cheap enough to take the risk. As soon as I’m able though to get out and look, touch and examine, using the advice in your excellent video I will be making a purchase. Best wishes. Keep up the great work.

Andrew Waddington

As long as it fits nicely, why is a replacement wedge so bad?

Jeremy Carlsten

Thanks for the video and all the hard work to help us, and spread the knowledge.

Vasileios

Glad you think so!

Rex Krueger

Oh yeah, that's YEARS of blade!

Rex Krueger

Man, it feels long to me. I have no attention span.

Rex Krueger

He probably doesn't deserve it!

Rex Krueger

Jeff - I have tried the replacement blade thing. Does NOT work well. Modern blades are thinner, the chip-breakers are shaped differently and you will never get the wedge to seat properly. Thankfully, that particular project plane was part of a large bundle where I was mostly after the moulding planes.

Martin Hartley

I paid $45 AUD for my 22" Mathieson Jointer Plane. That's about $30US. It was complete, very few flaws and had already been sharpened by the previous owner. I just had to give it a light clean, lap the sole and hone the blade a little. Tools do tend to be more expensive here in Australia because historically we imported them mostly from the UK. I wouldn't pay the prices they are asking you. A bundle of 3 good ones (smoother, fore/jack and jointer) is really worth only between $30-40US, and that is when they have good irons, few checks, undamaged totes, etc. I have seen people ask seriously big $$$ for restored ones. Buy from an enthusiast/hobbyist woodworker if you can. Tell them that you are still starting out and they'll often toss you a few freebies from their spares/extras box to help you get started.

Martin Hartley

That buddy Sam sure is a lucky fella. Thanks, Rex!

Sam Marcum

That would explain the chip breaker in my Stanley No 4 smoother as well. Just checked it and there is a high spot at the back that needs to be fixed.

Matt Stalford

Now I have a good reference for restoring the several wooden planes that I have collected over the years. Thank you Rex. By the way, this is a short video. A long video is one of the infomercials that pop up on YT when I go over there to rewatch these videos. A 1.03.34 video on herbs for your gut is a looooooooong video. Take care and looking forward to your next video in this series.

Matt Evans-Koch

I purchase a transitional #29 L.I.G. (Stanley?j plane at a flea market for $15. With this information combined with your metal plane videos I should be able to restore it. I thought the blade may be short when I bought it, but it has just over an inch left so it should be good!

Brian Bell

Thanks Rex as always great content and informative

Wayne

Getting a new blade that actually fits is a challenge. The plane was usually made to fit the specific iron and they weren't so consistent back then. I haven't made a wedge but I'm confident I could do it IF I had a good one to copy. You probably wouldn't want to fly blind on that one.

Rex Krueger

100% Keep the blade and saw the body into chunks. Endless uses for that aged beech.

Rex Krueger

You might need to put just a touch more bend in it to get it to engage with the blade better. They're supposed to be springy on a Stanley.

Rex Krueger

That part is not so widely known. Anyone can mess that up!

Rex Krueger

If those fingers are causing problems, then you need to look at them very critically. Are they holding the blade down? Are there gaps or damage?

Rex Krueger

Thank you!

Rex Krueger

I have seen allot of wooden planes in the shops in my area. Never was to sure if I should pick any up as I had no clue how to tell if they were worth restoring. Now I have good information from your video to determine the condition and the value to give it a try. I see many of these planes with missing blades, chip breakers and the wedge. Can you purchase replacement blades and chip breakers? Have you ever attempted to make a new wedge?

Jeff Hill

Lets say you get one of these planes for 10$ and it turns out you can’t save it. Then you got a really good price on material for making other tools?

Oscar Karlsson

The jamming chip breaker/ iron part of this video was very helpful, as I have been struggling with that on my Stanley Handyman plane. I take it those are kind of junky planes and the chip breaker is much thinner. How much can I whittle away at those thin stamped(?) metal ones before I ruin them? Keep up the good work!

Mark Morgan

It occurs to me that a plane that's had enough use to do in the blade, might be worth a high quality replacement blade. I like Hock blades and breakers.

Michael Ross

There is ripping - band saw vs. hand saw. Then flattening all done with hand plane, although I do have a planer, I hate the noise and so only use it on special occasions. Boring the cross hole - drill press vs. brace and bit, no problem. Yeah, I think definitely doable without machines. I wouldn't like to do it without a really good hand saw and a good hand plane. I suppose its best thought of as above rank beginner level. But, you could whip up a scrub plane out of whitewood and learn a lot getting a serviceable plane, just not pretty or able to last 100+ years. My DIY #6 size wood plane is nice and it was made some years ago. I am a lot better at this stuff now. It was a success. My one regret is I didn't understand about the mouth/edge relationship. I want to make a smoother and I know what to do now. The one disadvantage of a wooden plane is the lack of a movable frog, or mouth. I am slowly thinking about how I might make an adjustable mouth on a Krenov style plane. That alone would probably be as much work as the whole rest of a normal Krenov. I think I would need to protect the moveable mouth parts from getting hammered into the plane by bumping into stuff as you work. The sides would need to go around front of the mouth to form a bumper, How to adjust the mouth without a bunch of hardware getting in the wa? Maybe it could be done with wedges and a mallet. I just watched Stavros make a plane and he makes his own purposeful broaches and rifflers to do it the old way. Impressive and very instructive, but not something I can take on for some years to come.

Michael Ross

I bought an old coffin plane a while ago, and I was wondering why I could never get it to work. Well, now I know NOT to remove the iron while attempting to flatten the bottom...

Natasha Stuver

Oh wow, this was 27 minutes, and I didn't even notice, so much good info in there! I've seen some wooden planes (mostly German ones) with a continuous piece of wood for a wedge instead of the two legs at each side, do you think this makes a difference? Because on my wooden scrub I've got one of those wedges with the two legs, and somehow it's constantly causing chips to get stuck and clog the throat, so I'm thinking of replacing the wedge…

Daniel Bohrer

Oh yes, that would be an interesting video!

Daniel Bohrer

Thanks kindly, bundling, good idea!

William Allen

According to this, the planes marked as Scioto used a lower grade of timber. The irons were exactly the same: https://www.timetestedtools.net/2016/01/27/ohio-tools-planes-and-some-history/amp/ They also made them in New York, it seems? So who knows if mine came from there or from Ohio. But it's definitely pre-1900, because it's a completely wooden body not a transitional design.

TwoRavens

I would negotiate on those. Try to bundle them for a discount. Very few woodies are worth more than $20 where I live.

Rex Krueger

Nothing at all! I cut up the ones I can't save and keep that beech to make all kinds of other tools out of.

Rex Krueger

Rex, Thanks for this video. I refinished a coffin and a larger (Jack?) plane several months ago using many of the techniques you provided in this video. Used a conglomerate of information from the web. It's great you put it all in one concise package. Keep up the great work.

Kevin S Thomas

We all over pay sometimes. If you play the game, you've got to lose occasionally.

Rex Krueger

Honestly, if that's a problem, then it's already too late for me. I've been bathing in the stuff for years.

Rex Krueger

I'm a hoarder, so I can't say why other do it. But seriously, I do kind of collect them just because of all the differnent styles and approaches to building. It's endlessly fascinating. For actual use, yeah, 3 or 4 is a full set.

Rex Krueger

Really? I would very much like to see a picture of that plane. Could you put it on the Discourse and tag me in?

Rex Krueger

Love it. Can't have too many of these recopies.

Rex Krueger

You make a good point. I don't think I can get a mouth-repair into next week's video,, but perhaps a Patron exclusive!

Rex Krueger

James is pretty spot-on here. You'd mostly be making a new mortise, which isn't easy, but shouldn't hurt anything.

Rex Krueger

Do you think the Krenov approach works for hand-tool only people? I've made them, but only with machines.

Rex Krueger

One of these is a Scioto; I don't see any difference in quality.

Rex Krueger

No problem. The chip-breaker is the problem for a lot of people.

Rex Krueger

Thank you!

Rex Krueger

Wow, everything you ever wanted to know about wooden planes but were afraid to ask. I've been eyeing a number of wooden planes at my local shop. Doing research, trying to figure out if they are any good, as the price is NOT good. They are asking $50 each for the smaller ones and $85 for the larger ones.

William Allen

Put it this way - I'm a lot less worried about my wooden Fore Plane now that I know the "cracks" are actually "Checks" ! Just a shame that the "Free" Jack that I got is probably not worth the effort as the blade has been so well used that there's probably not much more than a half inch before it reaches the slot.... Then again, when you've literally paid nothing, what's to complain about?

Rob Weir

I really enjoy these (extremely) informative old tool videos. I know I have overpaid for some old wooden planes but I have also passed on some. Now I can be a better thrift buyer. Thanks, again!

Jeff Stauffer

Can we get a link to the coarse diamond plate please?

Mark farner

Oh! You're going to get some comments about not having gloves on when you put the BLO on those planes. :)

Yohann_M

Nice, comprehensive video.

Yohann_M

I'm so happy you picked up the wooden plane topic! I'm thankful you're keeping with your usual pragmatic approach, it really helps me get into the shop instead of spending more time watching video;). I'm looking forward to seeing more on wooden planes. I'm really wondering why people keep so many, isn't it enough to have a jack, scrub, smoother, jointer? Why would people keep more than 10 wooden planes? Are they collecting?

O A

Perfect timing, I just got a long wooden plane and would be good to have some info on how to tune up at least the bottom. The plane has a metal screw cap to hold the blade.

MrAtalon

Another way to clean old planes as well as antiques that could use some love is oil and turpentine. Specifically pure tung oil and turpentine mixed together. It was a fairly common method of cleaning and rejuvenating old antiques that I learned from a restorer a few years ago. He even goes so far as to warm his mix in a hot water bath (similar to a double boiler set up) so the oil stays thin and flows better.

Stephen Ellis

Rex-a very thorough and well done video for those old wooden planes. I look forward to next week’s video, because one of things I hesitate on using the ones I have-and yeah, I have more than a few-is the time and process of setting them up. I’ve played around with some of the ones I have, but didn’t feel like I got them adjusted well or they would get “un-adjusted” during use. Also, sometimes I would see the mouth and throat and think they were too big to do any finer work. Any chance of sneaking in a little bit of mouth repair on the next vid?

Sean O'Neill

Any modern glue is essentially permanent and forever. You would just need to chisel out the mortise to receive a new handle. Not a huge problem.

James Carey

Great video. Such planes often in worse condition would be found at "antique shops" here and they would want hundreds of dollars. They also would not allow inspection for fear of damage. I do have a question about using epoxy on the the handle. My concern is that epoxy is permanent and forever. If the handle should break and need replacement you would have to remake the handle slot. Wouldn't this run the risk of destroying the body of the plane?

Skully Wood and Metal

Top notch. You are right to be proud of this video. I learned good stuff. I think I am more of a DIY Krenov guy, but this is excellent information to be exposed to. I suspect I will encounter an old plane that calls to me, now I know better if I should allow the seduction.

Michael Ross

I've actually restored an Ohio Tool Works plane! Technically it's from their Scioto Works, which was their second-quality line, but it's still one of my favorite planes. It's a fore plane, and it just glides over work. The iron still cuts like a dream.

TwoRavens

Ah now I know how to fix the chip breaker gap on the big wooden plane I have, Thanks Rex!!

Winston Stone

Awesome! I enjoyed watching and learned a bit. Looking forward to part 2. Great work!

Robert Bullock


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