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Rex Krueger
Rex Krueger

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Process Notes: Building a Lathe Headstock

  

So here’s the headstock from the Real Lathe:

Looks good, right? That’s what I thought, too. It’s extremely sturdy and rigid; the pyramid design gives it a very wide base while making the top as narrow and unobtrusive as possible. That’s a win, right?

I wish.

As soon as I had it assembled, I noticed a couple of significant flaws in the construction. From the beginning, I was obsessed with giving this lathe a 12 inch swing. That’s what my Harbor Freight lathe has, and I consider it to be the minimum acceptable swing in a “full-size” lathe. Anything less, and this thing’s just a toy. So, with 12 inches at the forefront of my thinking, I carefully located the spindle a full foot above the ways. Everything seemed sturdy and accurate. I was proud of myself.

Except, that’s not the way swing is calculated. 

Swing is the distance between the spindle and the headstock DOUBLED. So, I didn’t make a lathe with a 12-inch swing, I made a lathe with a 24 inch swing. 

That’s enormous. 

Even the lathe I’ve been dreaming about buying, the monstrous Grizzly GO766 only has a swing of 22 inches. 

Sure, I’d love a lathe with 24 inches of swing, but there’s no way a lathe made from pipe is going to swing 24-inch pieces of wood. And the motor I have won’t be powerful enough for that, either. My headstock is twice as tall as it should be. 

And then there’s the spindle. It looks good, right? But, it does look a little bit long. In fact, it’s  much longer than it should be. Even if I put a big step pulley between the bearings, I only need about 5 inches of free space. I have 7.5 inches.

An over-long spindle introduces two major problems.  The first is flex. With tension from the belt providing radial force on the center of the spindle, there’s a big chance that the spindle will bend toward the motor. That would throw the spindle nose out of whack and introduce all kinds of vibration. No good.

Also, if your spindle is too long, then you’re giving up distance between centers for no good reason. Even on a fairly large lathe like this, 2.5 inches is a lot. I want it back.

So, the whole thing got pulled apart, redesigned, chopped-down, and reassembled. I cut over 3 inches of length off of the slanted pillars, knocked the forward support block 2.5 inches closer to the rear block, cut down the stabilizing bars, and put the whole shebang back together. 

Because of the way I had constructed the pillars, I couldn’t get the spindle height all the way down to 6 inches, but I did get it down to 8 inches, leaving me with a total swing of 16 inches. If this thing actually works, I’d be delighted with 16 inches of swing. That would be significantly bigger than my Harbor Freight lathe and might ultimately make this my go-to machine for bigger bowls and platters. And if the final version of the Real Lathe has 16 inches of swing and 36 inches between centers (which is what I expect), that I think a lot of people would be excited to build this machine.

So, I lost half a day redesigning and chopping the headstock, but the result is proper specifications and an even stiffer construction. Before the end of the week, I’ll add some sort of temporary pulley, wire up my motor and fire the whole thing up. Who knows what will happen then.

As always, thanks for your support and I hope everyone's week is off to a great start. 

Stay safe.

--Rex

Comments

No trouble. I really always have time for my Patrons.

Rex Krueger

That is what I was missing.

Jim Williams

George, hes wonderful about replies. And yes, the old metal lathe gi low thing is a great idea

James Boatright

wow, thanks for taking the time to reply, I really appreciate it!

George B

I like my tool-rest to be at or below elbow height. Figure that out and work backwards and you should be happy.

Rex Krueger

Chain drive is dangerous in a lathe because it can't slip. Get a bad catch or have some other mishap and something is going to break...badly. Belts slip and provide SOME safety.

Rex Krueger

Oh ye of little faith! I have plans to counter twisting. But we'll see.

Rex Krueger

So, the cross-braces aren't ideal for the belt, but I need them and there aren't many other places they can go. I plan on making a counter-shaft to control speed. I have a fairly complicated one in mind that will give 8 speeds in a high and low range. I think the motor will be down near the bed of the lathe and the countershaft will be mounted up pretty high. This was a common arrangement in metal lathes for a long time and that angle should minimize any belt problems. Good eye!

Rex Krueger

Looking good, nice right up. I have yet to set up my lathe. What is a good bench height?

Aaron Sprague

Will this be a belt drive or chain drive? Chain drive would reduce the chance of deflection, but may not work for other reasons that I am not seeing at this moment.

Jim Williams

Depend on where the motor goes, but he's got a 3 step, and thus 3 speed pulley in the photo. I'm just not convinced that those pipes are stable enough. I fully expect this to twist.

James Boatright

Looking good! a shorter headstock is definitely more stable. those wooden cross-braces between the 2 parts of the head - won't they interfere with the motor belt? also, I'm curious about speed control, if and how you plan to implement it. I guess that depends on the type of motor, so I'll just wait and see :) good luck!

George B


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