WIP 1: High Viz Workwear Toile

In this post I will explain the modification I make to prepare the patterns for real life sewing. Keep in mind that the toile I made is a bit more than just basic toile because it includes some details but not a complete prototype either.

The following are the overall modifications that I used for all of my projects:

1. Seam allowance. I use 1 cm seam allowance for normal seam and 1.5 cm seam allowance for felled seam.

2. Notches. To help with aligning during sewing.

3. Double layer. Pieces like collar, cuff and waistband has double layers or folded in real life.

4. Hem. In 3D I just add topstitch to fake the hem appearance but in real life the fabric needs to be folded then topstitches in order to finish the raw edges. I usually add more seam allowance value instead of adjusting the pattern itself.

5. Lining and facing. In 3D I avoid lining and facing because they add complexity to the geometry, but they are important to sew some garment like jacket.

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I will explain the modification I made for this project below. I forgo most details like 'cut and sew', reflective straps, pockets waist elastic and knee dart.

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1. Hood. No other modification aside from adding seam allowance and notches. I'm not sure how the actual hood is attached to the neckline, but I will just sew it to the lower edge of the collar.

2. Collar. The collar and hood are already in double layer, which I rarely do in 3D, but an exception for this garment because I want the inner and outer fabric to be in different color. There is an option in Clo to set different color for the front and back side of fabric, but these are difficult to export into other 3D formats.

The center-front of the collar is offset by half the zipper width. For example, my zipper width is 3.2 cm so the offset amount is 1.6 cm. Then 2 cm seam allowance is added in order to sew the zipper. Only 1.2 cm allowance is added for the lower collar layer so that the sewing for the zipper does not overlap.

The dotted line indicates where I will sew the front flap.

I put two notches per side at the lower edge. The notch near the center coincides with shoulder-line while the other notch is where I will stop sewing the hood.

3. Bodice.

Like the collar, the center-front is offset to accommodate the zipper. The back includes the yoke and back pleat.

I decided to use flat felled seam for the shoulder, armhole and yoke, thus the 1.5 cm seam allowance.

Unlike the 3D pattern in Clo, I need to add an inner lining, which is just the clone of the main pattern. Without the lining I cannot properly sew the zipper. Another option is to place an inner facing which will use less fabric. The real garment probably has both.

4. Sleeve and cuff.

1.5 cm seam allowance for the-sleeve cap is for the felled seam. The inner layer just uses normal seam. The cuff is folded.

5. Pants.

The center-front is offset for the zipper. The hem has 4 cm seam allowance so that I can fold it to form 2 cm hem.

Another interesting thing is the extra piece on top to the back pants yoke. I never saw it in other garment before. The lower edge of the piece has 2 cm seam allowance so that I can fold it to finish the raw edge.

Near the outside ankle has a slit that is covered with a flap. Apparently, it is called 'snow gaiter.

6. Front flap.

This is a folded piece of fabric to cover the zipper. The lower edge has 2 cm seam allowance, but I will sew it at 1 cm so that it is placed lower than the zipper.

All these are just planning. Most probably I will find something wrong later and need to change something.

The next step is to plan the order of how I will sew all these together. It will take at least a day. This is an important step so that I will have an easy and enjoyable sewing experience later.