NokiMo
Najdmie
Najdmie

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Edwardian dress detailing, unedited recording.

Starting from this garment I will include the unedited raw footage so you can see me struggling. I did consider to stream it but I can't commit on specific time and my streaming setup is not ready yet.

The most important detailing is actually the pleats, which I already done in the edited video.

Here is the video summary:

1. The buttons are just circular fabric pieces. I always prefer to use fabric for button whenever I can because it is easier, stable and reduce the complexity of the model. But there are similar buttons shape in the library that you can use.

2. The pocket is just a simple patch pocket. But it is stretched out for the 'gather' effect. Modifying the sewing line and using elastic help to make it resemble those on reference garment.

3. I added another layer to the waistband so that the bodice appears tucked in the skirt instead of sewn.

4. I use cotton chambray, but increase the reflectivity a bit to make it shinier. Usually, I will reduce the roughness to make it shiny but this fabric roughness is tied to roughness map.

5. Topstitches on the cuff, pocket and skirt hem. I also apply puckering to the sleeve head.

6. I spend the last 30 min figuring out how to open the pleat a bit. But the pleats always open too much, no matter at what location I release the sewing. In the end, I give up and just keep the pleat sewn. For a bit more realistic render, I suggest releasing all the pleat sewing, then simulate very briefly just enough to make the pleat open slightly for that ambiance occlusion effect.

Edwardian dress detailing, unedited recording.

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