Najdmie

Shearling Jacket

Added 2024-10-07 05:37:50 +0000 UTC

*As far as I know, a shearling jacket is more about the fabric (shearling leather) rather than the design. This one is in the style of bomber with buttons.

Reference garment: BRUNELLO CUCINELLI Shearling Bomber Jacket

Bodice: Loosely based on Burgo leather jacket (p270).

Sleeve: Burgo men shirt sleeve (p254). Followed by a simple 2-piece modification.

Collar: Kershaw "shaped convertible collar with hidden stand" (p227).

Fabric: Leather. Knit rib for waistband and cuff. For the collar, I just use wool because fur is render-only in Clo.

Not recorded: "layer clone under" to help adding more volume. Buttons. Topstitches.

Footnotes:

#1 this value determine the undearm-level which affects the amout of armhole ease. If your are drafting for real life consider lowering the underam-level (more armhole depth) for more comfort and ease of movement.

#2. I draw to perpendicular baseline first as a guide to be extra precise. MD user don’t have baseline feature, so just eyeball it.

#3. Instead of lowering the biceps-level (increasing the sleeve-cap height), you can also widen the sleeve. It is normal for a sleeve-cap to be slightly longer than armhole. This is for better shape and comfort. You can omit this for stretchy fabric, or if the sleeve is very wide/baggy.

#4. I follow Myoungok et al – Add 30% to 3 inch of lower front and back, 50% to 3 inch of upper front, 55% to 3 inch of upper back. Maybe unnecessary for small-sleeve-cap ease like this but I do it every time else I’ll forgot how to do it.

#5 The width must be reduce a bit for ribbed cuff. Omit if using non-stretchy fabric.

#6. Instead of fullness-point tool, you can use the fullness-line tool to shape the pattern, whereby you don’t need the slash lines. I’m old so I do it the old school way.\

#7. Note that in real life, the waistband and cuff is 2 fabric thick because they are folded.

#8. Leather garment usually have lots of panels because is it harder and expensive to source large size of leather.