On leatherdyke history and 'FIST' by Ella Boucht

Earlier this year, London-based fashion designer Ella Boucht asked me to model for their latest collection titled 'FIST'. The collection is inspired in equal parts by the history of queer people in martial arts and boxing and the leatherdyke culture and S/M. I was honoured to embody the latter, inspired by the many incredible leatherdykes of the past, including Tala Brandeis cracking the whip at a dyke march in Washington DC. 

I also wrote the text which seeks out the essence of hurting each other consensually in sports and sex, and what it means for the queer identity today. Read below. 

The story of FIST, the new spring/summer collection by London-based label Ella Boucht unveils between the boxing ring, the gritty gym and dimly-lit corners of S/M parties. Boucht surveys the existence of queer and trans bodies in these spaces, both public and private, the sights of resilience, fight, joy and discovery. The smell of sweat mixes with leather in the quest for ecstasy, intimacy and understanding - in paving your way and becoming yourself.

During their research for the collection, Boucht looked into the history of women and queer people in boxing, mixed martial arts and Muay Thai – and all the pioneers who fought not only their opponents but the status quo of profes- sional sports. Queer female boxers Michele Aboro and Tatyana Dvazhdova, trans boxer Pat Manuel, trans boxer and Muay Thai fighter Parinya Charoenphol and Cuban female boxer Namibia Flores Rodriguez were among the figures who inspired Boucht. The pattern of the black and white, and green tailored pieces are directly based on a scene of Namibia Flores Rodriguez training at an abandoned Olympic stadium in Cuba with a beautiful arched ceiling.

The idea first conceived at a community-run queer boxing class, FIST SS23 is an exploration of a queer and trans body in sport and in fighting. It is about the thrill of the fight - but also about tenderness, mutual care and community which could be found in these settings.

The history of the leatherdyke community is an integral part of the collection. Consent plays a pivotal role both in S/M practices and in fighting in the ring. There is a pact between the parties which allows for the physical power exchange and creates a temporary space of play, freedom and experimentation - a deeply queer visceral experience.

The collection builds on Boucht’s previous work with exquisite tailoring centering non-binary, trans and queer bodies. It is complemented by a selection of hand-crafted leather pieces (including shorts, harnesses and signature waistcoats), boxer shorts and one-off pieces created from reworked boxing gloves. The colourful prints are made by Inez Valentine, airbrushed directly onto the fabric – inspired by the energy of a boxer’s punch.

“The pieces are cut based on armour, boxing / MMA gear, the leather dyke research and community, as well as on what people, including myself, used to wear to the boxing classes and then heading out into London’s queer nightlife,” the designer explains.

Fabrics, leathers and wools are all locally sourced from English mills, factories, as well as tailoring and leather shops. It also involves a number of collaborations with London-based makers and designers across clothes, fabrics and accessories.

Photography by Ella Boucht, see the full collection here.