Pattern mostly reference “Making Edwardian Costume for Women” by Suzanne Rowland, Chapter 7 “Two part walking dress” (picture below).

Basic bodice and skirt instruction by Injoo et al.
Sleeve instruction based on Donnanno. A bit of an archaic way of drafting the sleeve but I use it because its shape is the closest to the original pattern. The method that I used in the video tend to make wider sleeve in larger bust size, so if you use other avatar, I highly recommend using other method, then raise the head afterward for the 'puffed' look.
I browse a lot of historical patterns in order to make sense of how the pattern is originally made. In the end, I just do it my own way. So, this is not historically correct at all.
FYI this is exactly my least favorite garment to make, which is historical womenswear contoured dress with frill and lot of pleats. So excuse me for the lack of enthusiasm.
An unedited raw footage of detailing videos for this garment available exclusive for my Patreon subscriber.
The basic blocks:



Fab preview
Downlaod link for basic block. The folder name is:
Feifei - Zachary - Women Bodice Sloper with Puffed Sleeve 241209
Feifei - Zachary - Women Skirt Sloper 241209
Download link for 3D files (link expire after two months).
###### Video footnotes ######
#1 The value according to the table in the book is 21.5 cm for 30” to 32” bust. I choose a slightly lower value because I observe that the reference garment may have small armhole.
#2 The side-waist dart amount is not a fixed value and should change to balance the overall waist darts. If front/back waist dart amount is too big, the side-waist dart amount should be increased to compensate and vice versa. Refer the book for more explanation.
#3 The in actual garment, the bodice is not actually sewn to the skirt waistband. The bodice has its own waistband, which is anchored to the skirt waistband by buttons, and possibly belt. Also note that the bodice waistline is longer than the waistband by 1 cm, which is still acceptable.
K
2024-12-18 12:17:28 +0000 UTC